I do know of a perennial flower that is tough as nails, beautiful when it blooms, fragrant, tolerant to humidity, heat and frost. The only thing is that it blooms from spring to summer, but not through fall. It's called the Lady Banks Rose. It's a climbing rose with little yellow flowers that will completely cover the plant when it blooms. (Some cultivars have white flowers, but it has been my experience that the yellow flowered Lady Banks Roses are more fragrant.) They are practically thornless (or prickleless to be more scientifically correct). They are resistant to insect infestation and disease infection. I really love this rose. The only thing is, you would have to either have a large area to let it mound as it grows, or have a trellis or arbor to let it climb up. They can get rather large if you don't prune them. This is fine though. I think they are quite beautiful when they mound. You would probably need 20 feet of space to let it grow in that manner though. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions. Cheers...Dr. Robby

I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Cheers...Dr. Robby

Now...as for the that sticky stuff you are seeing on the leaves, that is called honeydew. Honeydew is, to use the scientific nomenclature, these pests' poop. :) They suck the sugars from the plant, but cannot digest all of the sugar so they excrete the excess out. It can simply be washed away with water. One thing you should keep in mind is that since honeydew is basically sugar, honeydew can promote fungal growth on your leaves. If you already have fungal growth on the leaves, not to worry. The fungus is not attacking your plant as much as it is eating that sugar.

As for the whitefly, you can use the same exact homemade spray for the whitefly. Unfortunately, the pest that you see is only the adult stage of this insect. The larval stage is found in the soil. You can either let the soil dry out a bit more often (this may reduce the population of larvae slightly), or you can get a pesticide drench. A drench works by including it into the water you would normally use when you water your Aralia. You can either find a strictly chemical pesticide for the drench or you can purchase a microbial "pesticide". You can purchase a bacterial slurry of Bacillus thuringensis (more commonly known as BT) to drench the soil with. BT produces a protein that it will exude, which when eaten by some insects will bind to proteins inside their midguts and essentially prevents the insect from absorbing any nutrients. This protein that is produced by BT does not have a toxic effect on humans or pets. In fact BT is used as an organic pesticide.

Hey Elayna...Sounds to me like you have aphids and possibly white flies. When I see the words "green bumps" put together, I think aphids, but it could also be scale. Anyhoo, if you do have aphids you can make your pesticide that won't be too harmful to you or the plant. You can mix 3 ingredients that you likely have at home already: rubbing alcohol, dishwasher soap and warm water. There are many recipes that call for different amounts of each ingredient, and I don't have one preference over the other really. I would do an internet search to find the correct concentrations. Sometimes you will see a 50:50 dilution of the alcohol with a couple of teaspoons of dishwasher soap, but many may say that is too strong. In reality, I think you can come up with a fine mixture following a standard recipe online.

Very cool! I like to see you getting involved in horticulture. But is there no way you know for sure which hazelnut you want? We currently have 3 species of hazelnut (genus name: Corylus) in the database. Let me know if you find any more information about these hybrids. Cheers...Dr. Robby

I hope this information is helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions. Cheers, Dr. Robby

As for fertilizer, usually "baby" plants need light doses of fertilizer at first. It sounds like you are transplanting mostly indoor plants. I would recommend you get some fertilizer that is specifically designed for houseplants. You can find this at most any hardware store or plant nursery. They generally come in granular form, which you dissolve in water. You can water with diluted fertilizer solution if you wish, but I wouldn't go full strength after you are sure that the roots are substantially developed. Fortunately this is about the same time that you will stop giving so much moisture to the "baby" plants since they have graduated from being a baby to more of a toddler. Kind of like going from baby formula to solid food in human babies. :) The amount of time it takes to reach this stage really depends on the amount of root growth that is taking place and that can depend on a lot of factors. Basically it is difficult to tell how long it will take, but on average I would say that it can take anywhere from several weeks to several months.

Hey Kadra...Having a fast-draining soil is rarely a problem for plants. Most plants prefer not to have their "feet wet". They prefer to be in moist soil that is not completely soaked. It is true that newly transplanted plants should be given constantly moist soil (the reason why is usually they do not have enough roots yet developed to maintain the aboveground plant parts yet), but it is also important to be sure not to over water them. It sounds like with your super fast draining soil, that shouldn't be too big of a problem. Also, I would recommend not allowing the tray to remain full of water. When the water drains from the pot into the tray, you should eventually drain off that excess water. The pot shouldn't be sitting in standing water for too long.

You got it, Glenn. This plant will be added to our back log of plants to add to the database. If you have any nice pictures of a Bower Plant, we are more than happy to accept it for our database. You will be given the photo credit as well. Thanks again...Dr. Robby