Moth Orchids are your prototypical horticultural orchid. For the most part they are epiphytic, which means they grow on top of other plants. They may live in mostly warm and often times moist environments, but because of where they live (on top of other plants) they have to cope with dry conditions. This is why the Moth Orchid has a similar physiology to cacti. They both perform what is called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism, aka CAM. Cacti in general have little access to water because there is little moisture in the soil. These orchids may have little access to water because epiphytic plants do not have their roots anchored in any soil that may retain some of moisture.
Moth Orchids are mostly epiphytes from southeast Asia, northern Australia, the Philippines and Burma. They have a short stem composed of overlapping leaf bases. Leaves are fleshy, broadly ovate to oval, often glossy, and bright green. The flower heads resemble the shape of a moth.
| Plant Types: | Interior Plant, Perennial |
| Light: | Shade to Partial Sun |
| Height: | 1 foot to 3 feet |
| Width: | 1 foot |
| Zones: | 14a to 15b |
| Bloom Color: | Lavender, Pink, Purple, Red, White, Yellow |
| Bloom Seasons: | Early spring, Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer, Late summer, Early winter, Mid winter, Late winter |
| Leaf Color: | Green, Purple |
| Special Features: | Not North American native |
| Shape: | Upright or erect |
| Type of Soil Preferred: | Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Well-Drained |
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Plant in course bark in terracotta or ceramic pots. These orchids are difficult to propagate for the inexperienced gardener. Generally, these plants are not suitable for division.
Moth Orchids do well near a window but should not be in direct sun unless it is in the early morning or late evening. Will do best in bright, filtered light and high humidity.
Flowers remain in bloom for several months in a variety of colors, such as white, yellow-green, pink, yellow, and violet.
To prolong flowering, cut back flowered stems to a lower node.
Water sparingly, no more than twice a week. More water may be required in winter. As outdoor temperatures cool and heaters are turned on to keep the indoors warm, the humidity of the air will drop. The soil will dry out more quickly when the air has dried out from use of a heater.
During the growing and blooming season, feed monthly with liquid fertilizer.
When the flowers have all fallen off, cut off the flower spike just below the node where the first flower bloomed to promote re-blooming. When the flower spike is dead, it will become dry and brittle. At this point it should be cut at the base.
Phalaenopsis is vulnerable to edema, iron deficiency, bacterial soft rot, petal blight, pseudobulb rots, cymbidium mosaic, and odontoglossum viruses.